UL vs. ETL for Hex Garage Lights: Safety Certifications Guide – Hyperlite

Unsure what the UL and ETL logos on your hexagon lighting mean? This guide breaks down the key differences for DIY installers, explaining how each certification helps support safety and reliability for your garage project.

Why UL and ETL Matter for Garage Hexagon Lights

When you hang a bright hexagon grid over your car or workbench, you’re doing two things at once:

Transforming the look of your garage or shop
Plugging an electronic system into your home wiring

That second part is where UL and ETL come in.

Both marks tell you that a neutral third‑party lab has tested the product against recognized safety standards for things like electrical shock, overheating, and fire risk. For a plug‑and‑play product like a hexagon garage light or LED neon, that usually means testing under standards such as UL 1598 for luminaires and UL 8750 for LED equipment, as summarized by UL’s luminaire guidance and LED equipment standard.

For DIYers, the practical takeaway is simple:

A proper listing helps align your project with building codes and inspection expectations.
It reduces the risk that a wiring error or component fault turns into a serious problem.

Hexagon LED lights ceiling installation in a garage workshop — bright DIY garage shop lights over workbench

In the rest of this article, we’ll keep the language practical and show you exactly how to use UL and ETL markings to choose and install hexagon and neon kits with more confidence.

UL vs. ETL: What’s the Actual Difference?

Same goal, different labs

Here is the core idea many DIYers miss:

UL and ETL are both nationally recognized testing laboratories (NRTLs) that test to the same safety standards.

UL (Underwriters Laboratories) writes many of the lighting safety standards (like UL 1598 and UL 8750) and also runs test labs.
ETL (Intertek) is another NRTL that tests products against those same standards.

According to the Intertek ETL mark directory, the ETL mark confirms a product has been independently tested to applicable safety standards and is subject to ongoing factory inspections—exactly the same kind of oversight that UL applies to its own listings.

So, from a safety and code perspective:

A proper UL Listed product and a proper ETL Listed product are treated as equivalent.
Inspectors and insurers look for “listed by an NRTL”, not a specific brand of mark.

What the marks actually say

On hexagon or neon lights you’ll commonly see:

“UL Listed” – the finished product has passed UL’s testing and follow‑up inspections.
“cETLus Listed” – ETL has tested it for US and Canadian markets.

A key nuance many DIYers miss: you may also see “UL Recognized” on internal parts like LED drivers. That is not the same as a listed, ready‑to‑install product. We’ll break that down later.

Quick comparison: UL vs. ETL for garage projects

Here’s a garage‑friendly view of how UL and ETL compare:

Question	UL Listed Hex Lights	ETL Listed Hex Lights
Who tested it?	UL (Underwriters Laboratories)	Intertek (ETL)
Tested to which standards?	UL 1598 / UL 8750 and others	The same UL/IEC standards
Accepted by inspectors?	Yes, as NRTL‑listed	Yes, as NRTL‑listed
Good enough for DIY garage use?	Yes, when installed correctly	Yes, when installed correctly
Common misconception	“UL is the only ‘real’ mark”	“ETL is a cheaper/less safe version”

Bottom line: For a garage hexagon kit, UL vs. ETL isn’t a quality ranking. The more important question is whether the complete kit is actually listed at all.

“Listed” vs. “Recognized”: Why DIYers Get Confused

When you look closely at the power supply on some aesthetic lighting, you might see a tiny UL mark with the word “Recognized” instead of “Listed.” This is a major source of confusion.

According to the UL Product iQ database, UL uses:

“UL Listed” for complete, stand‑alone products that consumers or electricians install (fixtures, power strips, appliances).
“UL Recognized” for components that are meant to be built into another listed product (LED drivers, control boards, etc.).

What that means for your hex kit

If your hexagon kit says:

“UL Recognized driver” only – it usually means the driver module has been evaluated as a safe component, but the assembled kit (driver + tubes + harness) may not have a full listing.
“UL Listed” fixture or “ETL Listed” luminaire – the entire system has been evaluated as a complete unit.

This distinction matters for:

Code and inspections – many local codes require that permanently installed fixtures be listed, not just built from recognized parts. The NFPA 70 National Electrical Code overview describes the NEC as the minimum safety baseline for electrical work, and inspectors lean heavily on NRTL listings as evidence that equipment meets it.
Warranty and insurance – if a failure occurs and the product was not used as a listed unit (for example, it was modified or hardwired in a way the instructions did not allow), you may find yourself in a gray area.

Common myth: “If the driver is UL Recognized, the whole light is safe”

A frequent misunderstanding in DIY forums is:

“The power supply is UL, so the whole light is ‘certified’.”

In reality:

A recognized driver has been tested as a building block.
Once that driver is combined with wiring, connectors, and plastic housings, the whole system needs its own evaluation.

That is why many safety‑focused manufacturers advertise the listing number for the complete fixture, not just the driver.

How to Verify a UL or ETL Listing Before You Install

Seeing a logo on a label is not enough. Counterfeit and misleading marks exist, and DIYers are often buying online without a local distributor to vet products.

Here’s a simple process you can follow before you hang a hex kit over your car.

Step 1: Grab the model number and listing mark

From the product page, instruction sheet, or sticker on the driver/fixture, note:

Brand and exact model number
Whether the label says UL Listed, ETL Listed, UL Recognized, or something vague like “UL certified component”
Any file number or “Control Number” printed near the mark

If the information is vague, treat it as a red flag.

Step 2: Search the official databases

Use the lab’s own tools, not random comparison sites:

UL Product iQ – search by company name or file number on UL’s official database. You will usually need a free login.
Intertek ETL Directory – search the ETL Listed Mark Directory by product type, manufacturer, or control number.

Check that:

The model number on the listing matches what you are buying (small suffix differences like “-W” for white matter).
The product category is correct (e.g., luminaire or LED equipment).
The status is active.

Step 3: Confirm it’s a complete unit listing

Look for wording that indicates a finished product, such as:

“Luminaires – Surface mounted” under UL 1598
“LED equipment for use in lighting products” under UL 8750

As summarized in the UL 1598 overview, this standard covers general‑purpose luminaires rated 600 V or less, including requirements for wiring, thermal protection, and mechanical construction.

If the listing clearly refers only to a component (for example, “LED driver – Component”), then the rest of the system is not necessarily covered.

Step 4: Ask the seller for documentation

Before you buy, you can:

Request a PDF of the certificate with the listing number.
Confirm whether the certificate covers the entire hex kit or only the driver.
Ask if the installation is intended as plug‑and‑play or hardwired.

If the seller cannot or will not provide basic documentation, that tells you a lot.

Step 5: Screenshot and save

Once you confirm a listing:

Save a screenshot of the UL/ETL database entry.
Keep the manual and invoice in a folder.

If anything ever goes wrong, having this record makes warranty conversations and insurance claims much easier.

Practical Safety Tips When Installing Hexagon and Neon Kits

A UL or ETL mark is not a force field. How you install and use the product matters just as much. Here are grounded, garage‑tested practices that align with what safety standards and codes are trying to prevent.

1. Treat the kit as a system

Think in terms of a complete system:

Power plug or junction box
Driver / power supply
Harness and connectors
LED tubes or neon segments

Standards like UL 8750 focus on the electrical and thermal safety of LED equipment, especially how it behaves under normal and abnormal conditions. When a lab tests a listed fixture, they look at how all of those parts work together.

In your garage, install the kit exactly the way the instructions show:

Do not mix in third‑party power supplies or controllers unless the manual clearly allows it.
Do not extend or modify low‑voltage harnesses beyond their rated load.

2. Respect the cable and wattage limits

Many modular hex kits have a maximum wattage per feed cable or harness. In the extra installation notes for typical systems, a common pattern is:

One input cable rated for around 440 W total load
A practical limit of about 60 tubes on a single feed, depending on tube wattage

These numbers vary by brand, but the physics don’t change:

More current → more heat in the cable → more stress on connectors.
Overloading one run can lead to melted connectors or nuisance tripping.

Safer practice:

Split large layouts into multiple feed runs instead of daisy‑chaining everything on one cord.
Keep connectors accessible rather than burying them behind drywall or permanently sealed surfaces.

3. Use grounded, protected power

LED power supplies are sensitive to surges and improper grounding. A pattern many DIYers see in practice:

Hex and neon kits plugged into old, ungrounded outlets have noticeably higher driver failure rates over a few years.

To extend life and align with the intent of standards like FCC Part 15 (which limits electromagnetic interference from devices, as outlined in the FCC rules):

Plug into a grounded receptacle.
Use a quality surge‑protected power strip if your home is prone to voltage spikes.
Avoid sharing the circuit with large inductive loads (big compressors, welders) if possible.

FCC Part 15 requires lighting electronics to keep radiated and conducted interference under defined limits so they don’t disrupt radios and other electronics. That testing assumes a correctly grounded installation.

4. Give the LEDs room to breathe

Dense LED arrays pressed against insulation or drywall will run hotter than the test lab expected. Over time this can:

Reduce light output faster than the LM‑80 lifetime projections suggest
Shorten driver life

Although LM‑80 and TM‑21 lifetime projections are more relevant for industrial fixtures, the same logic applies in a garage: higher temperature = faster aging.

For hexagon and neon installs, good practice is to:

Maintain at least 2–4 inches of clearance between the back of the tubes and any insulation.
Avoid enclosing the driver in a tight, unventilated cavity.
Keep kits away from areas where roof leaks could drip directly onto electronics.

5. Match controls to the driver type

Many aesthetic kits use:

Inline remote controls
RGB or dimmable drivers that rely on pulse‑width modulation (PWM) or proprietary control signals

If you connect these directly to a wall dimmer that wasn’t designed for them, you may see:

Flicker at certain levels
Buzzing or warm wall plates

To stay within the intent of standards like NEMA SSL 7A and the broader NEMA lighting controls guidance, follow these rules of thumb:

Use the supplied controller whenever possible.
If you want wall‑box dimming, choose a kit that explicitly lists compatible dimmers or a driver designed for that control method.
Test the setup at low and mid dim levels before you button up the installation.

6. Know when a plug‑in becomes “hardwired” work

Most hexagon and neon kits are sold as plug‑in systems. As long as you:

Plug them into an existing outlet
Route cables neatly along the surface using clips

…you’re typically within the DIY comfort zone.

However, the situation changes if you:

Remove the plug and tie the driver into a junction box
Run new branch‑circuit wiring

At that point, you are effectively doing permanent wiring covered by the NEC. The NEC overview from NFPA 70 makes clear that it governs wiring methods, overcurrent protection, and equipment. That level of work is where many homeowners decide to bring in a licensed electrician.

If you want a clean, hardwired look:

Choose a kit whose documentation explicitly allows hardwired installation.
Confirm the listing covers that use.
Consider having a professional handle the line‑voltage side and leave you to assemble the low‑voltage grid.

Choosing Between UL and ETL for Your Garage: Real‑World Scenarios

To make this concrete, let’s walk through a few common garage setups and how UL/ETL choices play out.

Scenario 1: One‑car garage, first hex kit

Space: 12 × 20 ft, 9‑ft ceiling
Goal: A bright, Instagram‑worthy look plus safe, simple install

Smart certification choices:

Prioritize a plug‑in kit with a full UL or ETL listing for the assembled system.
Look for a clear wattage limit per feed cable so you don’t overload a single run.
Verify in the database that the exact model number exists.

Result: You get a clean, bright garage with a kit that is easy to remove or reconfigure later, using only existing outlets and basic hand tools.

Scenario 2: Two‑car shop with tools and lift

Space: 24 × 24 ft, 11‑ft ceiling
Goal: Combination of task light for wrenching and general ambient light

Here, you might:

Use hexagon lights over the main work area for even lighting.
Add linear or high‑bay fixtures over the lift and storage.

Certification‑wise:

Make sure each type of fixture is individually UL or ETL Listed.
Confirm the driver or control gear is compatible with your planned switching or dimming.
Decide early whether any lighting will be hardwired—if so, coordinate with an electrician and keep the manuals and listing certificates handy.

For guidance on mixing hex and high‑bay styles, a layout‑focused article like a hybrid garage lighting guide can be useful, especially when you also care about safety and documentation.

Scenario 3: Detail bay or content studio

Space: 20 × 30 ft, 10‑ft ceiling
Goal: Bright, shadow‑controlled lighting that looks good on camera

In this setup you often push lighting harder:

More total wattage in a smaller area
Multiple feed runs
Additional accent neon or strip lighting

To keep that safely under control:

Use multiple feed cables, each below its rated wattage.
Mount drivers where they have airflow and access.
Keep a simple circuit map showing which feed serves which section, and label cables.

On the certification side, this is where inspectors (or landlords) may ask to see proof of listing for each system if it is part of a permitted build‑out.

Quick Decision Guide: What to Check Before You Buy

Use this checklist when you’re comparing garage hexagon or neon kits online.

Certification & documentation checklist

Listing mark on product page
- Look for “UL Listed” or “ETL Listed” on the finished fixture or kit, not just the driver.
Model‑specific verification
- Use UL Product iQ or the ETL directory to confirm the exact model number and status.
Component vs. complete unit
- If only the driver is UL Recognized, assume the rest of the kit has not been evaluated as a whole.
Intended installation
- Confirm whether it is designed for plug‑in use, hardwired use, or both.
Wattage and cable limits
- Read the manual for maximum watts per feed and plan your layout to stay under that.
Controls and dimming
- Ensure the kit’s driver is compatible with any dimmers or smart switches you plan to use.
Support and warranty
- Favor products backed by a written warranty and easily accessible FAQs or support pages.

Common red flags

Vague phrases like “UL standard” with no listing number
Only showing a driver UL logo in photos but never mentioning a fixture‑level listing
No downloadable manual or installation notes
No mention of wattage limits, connector ratings, or mounting recommendations

Being cautious at checkout is much easier than trying to fix a sketchy install later.

What to Expect When You Install a Listed Hex or Neon Kit

When you choose a properly listed, plug‑in kit and follow the instructions, the process usually looks like this:

Plan the layout
Measure your ceiling, mark the grid pattern with painter’s tape, and make sure the feed location aligns with a convenient outlet.
Assemble on the floor first
Click tubes and connectors together at ground level to avoid surprises on the ladder.
Mount hardware and route cables
Use the supplied mounts or clips, keep low‑voltage harnesses tidy, and avoid sharp bends.
Connect to power per the manual
Plug into a grounded outlet or connect via the method the documentation allows. Do not improvise on the line‑voltage side.
Test before final clean‑up
Check for flicker, hot spots on drivers, or loose connectors. Address any concerns while everything is still accessible.

A well‑documented, UL or ETL listed kit gives you a clearer path if something doesn’t go as planned: the manual will spell out what’s normal, what isn’t, and how to get support.

Key Takeaways

UL and ETL are peers, not rivals. Both are nationally recognized test labs that evaluate products to the same core safety standards. A properly UL Listed and a properly ETL Listed hexagon kit are equivalent from a safety and code perspective.
The big distinction is “Listed” vs. “Recognized.” Listed means the whole kit has been evaluated as a finished product; Recognized usually refers to a component like a driver.
Verify listings before you buy. Use the UL Product iQ and ETL Listed Mark Directory to confirm the exact model number and its status, rather than trusting a logo in a marketing photo.
Respect wattage, wiring, and control limits. Overloaded cables, ungrounded outlets, and incompatible dimmers are common causes of flicker, premature failures, and unsafe installs.
Plug‑in installs are DIY‑friendly; hardwiring moves into code territory. Once you start modifying plugs or running new branch circuits, you are working under the NEC and should strongly consider professional help.

When you combine a properly listed kit with a thoughtful install, you get what every DIY garage or shop owner wants: great‑looking lighting that you can feel good about leaving on.

Safety Disclaimer

This article is for informational purposes only and does not replace advice from a licensed electrician, professional installer, or local authority having jurisdiction (AHJ). Electrical codes and inspection practices vary by location, and improper installation can result in injury, fire, or property damage. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and consult a qualified professional before modifying electrical systems or hardwiring any lighting equipment.

UL vs. ETL for Garage Hex Lights: What's the Difference?