How to Plan Power for a Hexagon & UFO High Bay Layout

Planning power for a mixed hexagon and UFO high bay layout is where “looks amazing” meets “passes inspection.” This guide walks through, step by step, how to size circuits, count loads, and sketch wiring so your dream garage or workshop is both reliable and code‑friendly.

Safety note: Working inside panels or on fixed wiring is not a DIY learning project. Use this guide to plan and verify, then have a licensed electrician review and perform the final connections according to the National Electrical Code (NEC) or your local equivalent.

1. Start With the Lighting Plan, Not the Panel

Most power headaches come from starting at the breaker panel instead of the ceiling.

1.1 Map how you’ll actually use the space

Before you touch any numbers, sketch:

• Room dimensions and clear height (floor to bottom of truss/ceiling)
• Car bays, lifts, benches, storage, and gym or detailing zones
• Where you want task light (bench, lift, detailing), ambient light (general garage), and accent light (hexagon grid, wall patterns)

A common, practical split:

• UFO high bays for general / task lighting in the main bay area (18–25 ft mounting height, or 12–16 ft if you want “daylight bright” over a lift).
• Hexagon kits for visual zones: over a main detailing bay, gym area, or photo corner.

If you want more detail on spacing and aiming high bays, see the warehouse‑oriented layout discussion in the article on designing a high bay layout for warehouse safety; the same principles scale down nicely to serious garages and shops.

1.2 Pick target light levels first

Treat this like a small industrial project, not a living room.

Typical maintained illuminance targets, based on industrial practice such as ANSI/IES RP‑7:

Area / Task	Typical Range (maintained)
General vehicle storage, barn bays	100–150 lux (9–14 fc)
General garage / workshop	200–300 lux (19–28 fc)
Detail work, engine bay, bench work	500–750 lux (46–70 fc)
Fine assembly, inspection, photos	750–1000 lux (70–93 fc)

Designers usually work backwards: required maintained lux → number of lumens → number of fixtures. Only then do they worry about amps.

1.3 Use spacing‑to‑mounting‑height as a quick layout check

Experienced installers rely on the spacing‑to‑mounting‑height ratio (SHR):

• Start with SHR between 0.8 and 1.5 for high bays.
• Example: 14 ft mounting height, SHR 1.2 → spacing ≈ 14 × 1.2 ≈ 17 ft between fixtures.

Tighter spacing gives more uniform light (nicer for photos and video), wider spacing saves fixtures but adds contrast and shadows.

2. Understand Your Loads: Hexagon vs UFO High Bay

Before you can size circuits, you need realistic wattage and current numbers.

2.1 Why “nameplate wattage” isn’t the full story (Expert Warning)

A common misconception is that a “240 W” hexagon or high bay always pulls 240 W.

In practice, LED families span a wide efficacy range. Analysis of high‑bay product families shows that for the same mechanical form factor, input power for a given “wattage class” can vary by ±10% depending on the specific lumen package and driver tuning. Research on UFO high‑bay wattage comparison notes that a “240 W class” unit may draw anywhere from roughly 200 to 260 W depending on whether it sits at 130 lm/W or closer to 180+ lm/W.

Planning rule: When you don’t have the exact test data, treat catalog wattage as:

• 0.9 × nameplate for high‑efficacy versions
• 1.0–1.1 × nameplate for over‑driven or highest‑lumen variants

This keeps panel schedules and light levels within roughly ±10% of what you designed.

2.2 Typical wattages for a mixed garage layout

Use realistic, round numbers for planning:

Fixture type	Typical real‑world input (W)	Notes
UFO high bay, “150 W”	140–165 W	Often ~20,000 lumens in a shop/garage spec
UFO high bay, “200–250 W”	190–260 W	Use upper end for bright detailing bays
Hexagon tube grid section	350–440 W per large kit	Many garage kits cap one feed at ~440 W / 62 tubes

Always check your specific fixture’s spec sheet or LM‑79 test report; IES LM‑79‑19 describes the standard way total input watts and lumens are measured in the lab.

2.3 Convert watts to amps at your supply voltage

Use the basic formula:

Current (A) ≈ Watts ÷ Voltage ÷ Power Factor

Most modern LED drivers run at power factor ≥0.9, so for quick estimates:

Amps ≈ Watts ÷ (Voltage × 0.9)

Examples:

• 200 W high bay on 120 V: 200 ÷ (120 × 0.9) ≈ 1.85 A
• 200 W high bay on 277 V: 200 ÷ (277 × 0.9) ≈ 0.80 A
• 440 W hexagon kit on 120 V: 440 ÷ (120 × 0.9) ≈ 4.07 A

These are the running currents. For breaker sizing you must also consider inrush.

3. Circuit Sizing: The 80% Rule and Realistic Limits

3.1 Treat LED lighting as a continuous load

Lighting that stays on for 3 hours or more is considered a continuous load in the NEC framework. Installers usually treat all fixed lighting that way to be safe.

The practical rule is:

• Keep continuous loads ≤ 80% of the breaker rating.

So:

• 15 A breaker → planning limit 12 A lighting load
• 20 A breaker → planning limit 16 A lighting load

This aligns with the 125% factor for continuous loads discussed in NEC 210.20(A) and related commentary.

3.2 Worked example: 3‑car garage with UFOs + hexagon grid

Assume:

• Supply: 120 V, single‑phase
• 4 × UFO high bays at 150 W nameplate (assume 150 W input)
• 1 × hexagon kit at 440 W max (manufacturer’s cable limit)

1. Calculate total watts:

   • High bays: 4 × 150 W = 600 W
   • Hexagon kit: 440 W
   • Total: 1040 W

2. Convert to amps at PF ≈ 0.9:

   • 1040 ÷ (120 × 0.9) ≈ 9.6 A running

3. Apply the 80% rule for a 20 A breaker:

   • 80% of 20 A = 16 A planning limit → 9.6 A is acceptable on one 20 A circuit from a continuous‑load perspective.

4. Decide whether to split:

   • For reliability and future expansion, many installers would split this into two circuits:
     • Circuit 1: 4 UFO high bays (≈ 600 W → 5.6 A)
     • Circuit 2: Hexagon kit (440 W → 4.1 A)

That gives headroom for adding more grid segments or another bay light later.

3.3 Expert Warning: Don’t ignore inrush current

Another misconception is that you can size LED circuits only from the steady‑state amps.

Many modern constant‑current drivers have significant cold‑start inrush currents. Application notes from driver manufacturers show that a single 240 W high‑bay driver can hit 40–70 A peak for a few milliseconds when first energized. When many fixtures start at once, standard breakers can nuisance‑trip even if the running current is well below 80% of rating.

According to a circuit‑breaker application note from Inventronics (summarized in this PDF), the limiting factor in large LED runs is often how many drivers per breaker the breaker’s magnetic curve can tolerate, not the arithmetic running amps.

Practical recommendations:

• Check your driver datasheet for “maximum fixtures per breaker” tables.
• Avoid putting every high bay in a big shop on a single breaker, even if the math “fits.”
• Where local code allows, your electrician can choose breakers with curves suited to LED inrush (HACR / inrush‑tolerant types).
• Use staggered switching (multiple circuits, or controls that don’t energize everything at once) in large shops.

For a typical residential‑scale garage or small barn (say 4–10 high bays), you are still unlikely to hit breaker limits if you use 20 A circuits and keep fixture counts reasonable. Still, it is worth respecting the inrush behavior.

4. Planning Power for Hexagon Grids Safely

Hexagon kits are modular, bright, and visually striking—but they are still a high‑wattage continuous load.

4.1 Respect the manufacturer’s tube and wattage limits

A typical large garage hex kit limits:

• Max tubes per power feed: around 62 tubes
• Max wattage per feed: around 440 W

Those limits exist to keep the wiring harness and connectors within their temperature and current ratings.

Planning rules:

• Never exceed the listed tube count or wattage on a single feed.
• For very large ceiling patterns, split the pattern into multiple electrical runs, each with its own feed from a junction box.

4.2 Circuit sizing for hexagon runs (examples)

Assume 120 V and PF ≈ 0.9.

• One full 440 W grid run ≈ 4.1 A running → fine on a 15 A or 20 A circuit.
• Two full runs on one 20 A circuit: 2 × 4.1 A ≈ 8.2 A → still below 80% of 20 A.

As a practical limit, many installers keep no more than 3–4 large runs of hexagon tubes on a 20 A circuit to leave plenty of headroom for inrush and future add‑ons.

4.3 Avoid over‑daisy‑chaining and voltage drop

Hexagon tubes are generally fed by light‑gauge harnesses designed for short, modular interconnections, not 50–100 ft feeder runs.

To avoid dimming or hot connectors:

• Run a proper branch circuit (12 AWG copper on a 20 A breaker) to a junction box near the grid.
• From that box, feed short hex harnesses into each grid segment.
• If the overall ceiling run is very long, ask your electrician to assess voltage drop and possibly upsize conductors on long feeders.

A good rule from field practice:

• Use 12 AWG copper for 20 A circuits and 10 AWG for 30 A.
• On runs longer than ~100 ft, consider upsizing by one gauge to keep voltage drop modest.

4.4 Zoning hexagons for function and photography

From a power standpoint, giving hexagon grids their own circuits or at least their own switch legs has three benefits:

1. Independent control for tasks (detailing vs general use).
2. Photo/video flexibility (hex only, UFO only, or both).
3. Commissioning and troubleshooting: you can de‑energize the grid without killing all ambient light.

This is also handy if you later add occupancy or scene controls.

5. Planning Power for UFO High Bays

High bays are the workhorses for serious task light.

5.1 Decide on utilization voltage and stick to it

On larger buildings with 3‑phase service, it is common to have both 480 V and 277/120 V distributions. A practical design insight from industrial practice is that mixing multiple utilization voltages for lighting (e.g., some high bays at 480 V, others at 277 V) adds complexity: step‑down transformers, different surge protection devices, and different spare parts.

Industry engineers increasingly recommend standardizing on a single lighting voltage per building, commonly 277 V where available, to simplify maintenance and reduce SKUs. This perspective is echoed in engineering discussions of lighting controls and NEC distribution practice.

For a residential or light‑commercial garage with only 120/240 V available, your choices are simpler:

• Use 120 V fixtures on 15 A or 20 A circuits, or
• Use 240 V circuits for larger runs if your fixtures support it (often in 120–277 V or 347–480 V universal‑input models, wired line‑to‑line).

5.2 How many high bays per circuit?

At 120 V, assuming 150 W per high bay, PF ≈ 0.9:

• One high bay: 150 ÷ (120 × 0.9) ≈ 1.39 A running
• 10 high bays: ≈ 13.9 A running

On a 20 A breaker with a 16 A continuous‑load planning limit, 10–11 high bays is generally acceptable on paper.

Best practice in the field is more conservative:

• Keep 6–8 high bays per 20 A circuit for 150 W units.
• For 200–250 W high bays, keep 4–6 per 20 A circuit.

That leaves room for:

• Inrush tolerance (see section 3.3).
• Future additions (another bay over a new lift).

5.3 Three‑phase panels: balance your load

In larger shops and barns with three‑phase panels:

• Spread lighting circuits across all three phases as evenly as possible.
• Avoid loading one phase heavily with lighting and leaving others light—this causes neutral currents and potential overheating.

A simple approach:

• Circuit 1 → Phase A
• Circuit 2 → Phase B
• Circuit 3 → Phase C
• Circuit 4 → Phase A
• …and so on.

This is standard practice under NEC‑style distribution guidelines and makes inspections smoother.

6. Wiring 0–10 V Dimming and Controls

If you want full control—especially in a dual hexagon + high‑bay layout—you will probably end up with 0–10 V dimming on the high bays and simple on/off or remote control on the hexagons.

6.1 0–10 V basics

0–10 V is an analog control signal: two low‑voltage wires carry a reference between 0 V (minimum light) and 10 V (full light). NEMA’s LSD 64 lighting controls terminology guide defines 0–10 V as a standard dimming method for LED drivers and explains distinctions between line‑voltage and low‑voltage control circuits.

Key points for wiring:

• Treat the 0–10 V pair as Class 1 or Class 2 according to your driver and local code.
• Run the 0–10 V pair in parallel to each driver, not daisy‑chaining mains from driver to driver.
• Use twisted low‑voltage cable sized for the run length and quantity of fixtures.

6.2 Keep control wiring separate from mains

Installers often see flicker or erratic dimming when control wires pick up noise from line voltage.

Best practices:

• Where allowed, route 0–10 V control conductors separately from 120/240/277 V conductors, or in a divider compartment.
• Keep low‑voltage controls away from motor leads (compressors, lifts, large fans).
• Terminate all control wires securely; loose connections cause random behavior.

The DOE’s guide on wireless occupancy sensors highlights how poor sensor placement and wiring can cause false triggering and wasted energy, especially in high‑bay and warehouse applications. The same care with wiring and zoning improves reliability in garages and workshops.

6.3 Planning power for sensor networks (Pro Tip)

If you add Bluetooth or PIR motion sensors that are powered from a separate 12–24 V DC supply, treat them as a real load in your design.

Data from typical high‑bay sensor modules shows:

• Each node often pulls ≥50 mA at 12–24 V.
• For 20–40 fixtures, total sensor power can reach 50–100 W.

Design recommendations based on these figures:

• Use a dedicated Class 2 power supply sized with at least 20–25% headroom above calculated watts.
• Size low‑voltage cabling (often 18 AWG) so voltage drop is ≤ 5% at the furthest run; at 50 mA per node, 18 AWG is usually good for ~200–250 ft total run length.
• Put this supply and its loads on your one‑line diagram and panel schedule just like any other device.

Many projects underestimate sensor power, leading to mysterious resets or flaky behavior when every node turns on at once.

7. Step‑by‑Step Planning Checklist

Use this checklist to go from blank slate to a power plan that an electrician can work from.

Step 1 – Define the layout and light levels

1. Measure room length, width, and mounting height.
2. Decide target lux levels by zone (see table in section 1.2).
3. Sketch where high bays and hex grids will go; note SHR between fixtures.

Step 2 – Select fixtures and estimate wattage

4. Choose lumen packages for high bays and the size of each hexagon grid.
5. Pull catalog or LM‑79 watts and add ±10% margin if exact data is not available.
6. Calculate watts per zone and convert to amps at your supply voltage (assume PF ≈ 0.9 unless better data exists).

Step 3 – Assign circuits and apply the 80% rule

7. Decide on breaker sizes (15 A or 20 A, or 277 V circuits in commercial panels).
8. Keep continuous lighting loads ≤ 80% of breaker rating.
9. For each circuit, check both:
   • Running current vs. 80% limit.
   • Fixture count vs. driver “max fixtures per breaker” data if available.

Step 4 – Plan wiring routes and conductor sizes

10. Use 12 AWG copper on 20 A circuits, 10 AWG on 30 A if present.
11. Keep long feeder runs short where practical; upsize conductors when runs exceed ~100 ft.
12. For hex grids, bring line power to a nearby junction box, then distribute to multiple short kit feeds—never exceed tube/watt limits per feed.

Step 5 – Plan controls and zoning

13. Group high bays into logical control zones (per bay, per half of the shop, over the lift, etc.).
14. If using 0–10 V dimming, plan a parallel low‑voltage loop and keep it separate from mains where allowed.
15. Decide how hexagon grids are switched: together, per bay, or as separate circuits.
16. If using wireless or wired sensors, size the DC power supply and low‑voltage cabling accordingly.

Step 6 – Document for your electrician

17. Draw a simple one‑line diagram: panel → breaker → circuits → approximate fixture counts.
18. Label estimated watts and amps per circuit.
19. Note any standards or owner requirements (e.g., dimming zones, sensor coverage, future expansion allowance).
20. Have a licensed electrician review, adjust for local code (NEC or equivalent), and stamp the final plan.

8. Sample Garage Scenarios

To make this concrete, here are three realistic scenarios.

8.1 2‑car enthusiast garage (low ceiling, strong aesthetic)

• Size: 22 × 22 ft, 9 ft ceiling.
• Fixtures:
  • Hexagon grid centered over the main bay, 300 W actual.
  • 2 × 150 W high bays or low‑bay/shop fixtures over workbench and secondary bay.
• Power:
  • Total watts ≈ 300 + 2 × 150 = 600 W.
  • Amps at 120 V, PF 0.9 → 600 ÷ (120 × 0.9) ≈ 5.6 A.
  • All lighting could run on one 15 A circuit, but many installers would:
    • Put hex grid on Circuit 1 (≈ 2.8 A).
    • Put shop/high bays on Circuit 2 (≈ 2.8 A).

Benefit: Independent control of “show mode” vs “work mode,” and room to add a second grid or extra shop light later.

8.2 3‑car shop with lift (mixed task and accent)

• Size: 30 × 24 ft, 12 ft ceiling, one 2‑post lift.
• Fixtures:
  • 4 × 200 W class high bays (e.g., ±220 W actual) over main work zone and lift → ~880 W.
  • 1 × 440 W hexagon kit over detailing/photo bay → 440 W.
• Power:
  • Total ≈ 1320 W.
  • Amps at 120 V, PF 0.9 → 1320 ÷ (120 × 0.9) ≈ 12.2 A.

Circuit plan:

• Circuit 1 (20 A): 4 high bays → ~8.1 A running.
• Circuit 2 (20 A): hexagon kit → ~4.1 A running.

Both circuits sit comfortably under the 16 A continuous‑load target, leave inrush headroom, and separate work from accent lighting.

8.3 Small commercial shop / barn (high ceiling, three‑phase)

• Size: 60 × 40 ft, 18 ft mounting height.
• Fixtures:
  • 10 × 200 W high bays on 277 V, about 220 W each actual → 2200 W.
  • 2 hexagon clusters (300 W each) over specific work cells → 600 W.
• Power:
  • High bays: 2200 ÷ (277 × 0.9) ≈ 8.8 A at 277 V.
  • Hex grids at 120 V: 600 ÷ (120 × 0.9) ≈ 5.6 A.

Circuit concept (three‑phase panel):

• Lighting Panel at 277/480 V for industrial bays.
• Circuit L1–L2: 5 high bays (~4.4 A) on Phase A.
• Circuit L2–L3: 5 high bays (~4.4 A) on Phase B.
• Separate 120 V lighting panel or transformer secondary feeding:
  • Circuit 1: both hex grids (~5.6 A) on Phase C/neutral.

Result: Balanced phases, clean separation of industrial and feature lighting, and ample room to add sensors and controls.

9. Common Mistakes to Avoid

9.1 Mixing color temperatures on the same circuit

Installing 4000 K and 5000 K fixtures on one switch or dimming zone makes the space look patchy and is almost impossible to “fix” without rewiring.

Stick to one CCT per zone. Standards like ANSI C78.377 define the color bins for common CCTs (e.g., 4000 K, 5000 K) so that fixtures from reputable manufacturers look visually consistent.

9.2 Under‑estimating future expansion

Most garages and shops get brighter over time: more tools, more cars, more projects.

Leave:

• At least 20–30% spare capacity in panel space for additional lighting circuits.
• Headroom on key circuits (don’t design right up to the 80% limit if you can avoid it).

9.3 Ignoring code and inspection realities

Even if your math is right, inspectors expect installations to follow NEC (or your local equivalent) for:

• Conductor sizing and type
• Box fill and connector ratings
• Grounding and bonding

NFPA 70 (the National Electrical Code) is the base reference in most U.S. jurisdictions; state and local amendments may be stricter. Your electrician is responsible for applying these rules in detail.

10. Key Takeaways

• Start with lux targets and layout, not breaker sizes. Use SHR and lumen calculations to get fixture counts right, then translate to watts and amps.
• Treat all fixed lighting as a continuous load and keep circuits at or below 80% of breaker rating, allowing additional margin for future fixtures.
• For both hexagon kits and UFO high bays, design to real‑world wattages (often ±10% around the catalog rating) and respect manufacturer tube/run limits.
• Consider inrush current and driver limits when grouping many fixtures on one breaker; steady‑state amps alone are not the whole story.
• Size and route 0–10 V and sensor power with the same discipline as mains: correct gauges, voltage‑drop limits, and clear zoning.
• Document a simple one‑line and load schedule and have a licensed electrician finalize, install, and test everything.

FAQ

Q1: Can I power both hexagon lights and UFO high bays from the same circuit? Yes, as long as the total continuous load stays under about 80% of the breaker rating and you respect inrush and manufacturer limits. For flexibility and troubleshooting, many installers prefer to separate high bays and hex grids onto different circuits or at least onto different switch legs.

Q2: Do I really need 0–10 V dimming in a garage? Not always, but it gives you options. In mixed‑use spaces (gym, detailing, fabrication) dimming high bays lets you reduce glare for screens or photos, then ramp up for detailed work. Controls guidance from groups like NEMA’s Lighting Controls Association shows that even in industrial spaces, simple dimming plus occupancy control can significantly reduce energy use compared to always‑on lighting.

Q3: Is 5000 K always better than 4000 K for a workshop? No. 5000 K “daylight” feels crisp and is excellent for inspection, photography, and color‑critical tasks. 4000 K is slightly warmer and often more comfortable for spaces that double as social or relaxation areas. The key is consistency within each zone and using fixtures that comply with ANSI C78.377 so their color points match.

Q4: Can I install all this myself? Running extension cords and plugging in portable lights is DIY territory; modifying fixed wiring, panels, and junction boxes is not. For permanent UFO high bays and hexagon kits tied into your home or shop wiring, plan the system yourself if you are comfortable, but have a licensed electrician pull permits, size conductors, make terminations, and verify compliance with NEC or your local code.

Q5: How do I explain my plan to an electrician without a full CAD drawing? Provide:

• A dimensioned sketch of the space with fixture locations.
• A bullet list of fixtures per zone (with approximate watts each).
• A summary table of proposed circuits with watts and amps.
• Notes on where you want separate switching or dimming.

Most electricians appreciate a clear, well‑thought‑out brief and will adjust details (conduit routes, exact box locations, conductor sizes) to meet code and local practice.

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Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional electrical, engineering, safety, or legal advice. Electrical work on fixed wiring and panels must be performed and/or reviewed by a qualified, licensed professional familiar with the National Electrical Code (NFPA 70) and all applicable local regulations. Always consult the authority having jurisdiction (AHJ) and a licensed electrician before modifying or installing any electrical system.