Planning your dream garage or workshop lighting goes beyond just picking fixtures. A truly professional and reliable setup depends on what happens behind the walls: the electrical plan. This guide provides the technical knowledge to plan your power layout, explaining how to calculate loads, design circuits, and safely wire both decorative hexagon light grids and powerful UFO high bays.
Getting the electrical right from the start prevents common issues like tripped breakers, flickering lights, and unsafe wiring. It ensures your investment not only looks great but performs flawlessly for years.
Understanding Your Electrical Load
Before running a single wire, you must understand the power demands of your chosen lights. Hexagon grids and UFO high bays serve different purposes and have vastly different electrical appetites. Failing to account for this is a common misstep that can overload a circuit.
Aesthetic vs. High-Output Lighting
Hexagon lighting systems are designed for broad, aesthetic appeal and moderate task lighting. Individual tubes consume very little power. In contrast, UFO high bays are industrial-grade fixtures built for one purpose: delivering a massive volume of light into a large space. Their power consumption is significantly higher.
Here’s a practical comparison:
| Light Fixture Type | Typical Power Draw (Watts) | Primary Use Case |
|---|---|---|
| Single Hexagon Light Tube | 5-7 Watts | Ambient & Aesthetic Lighting |
| Dimmable Hexagon Garage Lights Gen 2 - 11 Grid | ~65-75 Watts (for the whole kit) | Detailing Bays, Showpiece Garages |
| UFO High Bay Light | 100W, 150W, 200W+ | General Workshop Illumination |
| Hyperlite LED High Bay Light - BP Series | 150 Watts | High-Ceiling Garages, Barns |
Calculating Your Total Lighting Load
To plan your circuits, you need to calculate the total continuous power draw. It’s simple addition:
- Hexagon Grid Load: (Number of individual tubes) x (Watts per tube) = Total Hexagon Watts
- High Bay Load: (Number of high bay fixtures) x (Watts per fixture) = Total High Bay Watts
- Total Lighting Load: Total Hexagon Watts + Total High Bay Watts
Example Calculation:
- A large hexagon grid with 62 tubes (62 x 6W/tube) = 372 Watts
- Four 150W UFO high bays (4 x 150W) = 600 Watts
- Total Load = 972 Watts
The Critical 80% Rule (NEC Continuous Load)
A common mistake I see is loading a circuit to its maximum rating. Electrical codes are designed to prevent overheating and fire, which is why they include a safety margin for "continuous loads." According to the NFPA 70 National Electrical Code (NEC), any load that runs for three hours or more—like your workshop lighting—is considered continuous. For these loads, the circuit should only be loaded to 80% of its maximum capacity.
- 15-Amp Circuit: Max capacity is 1,800 Watts (15A x 120V). The continuous load limit is 1,440 Watts (or 12 Amps).
- 20-Amp Circuit: Max capacity is 2,400 Watts (20A x 120V). The continuous load limit is 1,920 Watts (or 16 Amps).
In our example, the 972-watt total is well within the 1,440-watt limit of a 15-amp circuit. However, for reliability and future expansion, using a 20-amp circuit is a superior approach.
Planning Your Circuits: Dedicated vs. Shared
With your total load calculated, the next step is to map out your circuits. This decision impacts the reliability of your entire system. The goal is to isolate your high-power lighting to prevent it from affecting other devices in your garage.
Why a Dedicated Circuit is the Professional Standard
Your garage may have existing outlets, but they often share a circuit with other rooms or heavy appliances like a refrigerator. Adding nearly 1,000 watts of lighting to a shared circuit is asking for trouble. High-power LED drivers in UFO high bays create a momentary "inrush current" upon startup, which can be much higher than their operating current. This surge can easily trip a breaker on a loaded circuit.
I always recommend installing a new, dedicated circuit just for your lighting. This ensures your lights have clean, consistent power and won't be affected when you fire up a power saw or air compressor.
A Practical Circuit Layout Strategy
Here are two reliable strategies for laying out your circuits:
- Pro-Grade Approach (Best): Install two new dedicated circuits. Use a 20-amp circuit for your UFO high bays and a separate 15-amp circuit for your hexagon grid and general-use outlets. This completely isolates the heavy loads and provides maximum flexibility.
- Skilled DIY Approach (Good): Install a single, dedicated 20-amp circuit for all the lighting. This is a cost-effective solution that works as long as your total load remains safely under the 1,920-watt continuous limit.
Common Myth Debunked: You cannot simply plug all your lights into a single power strip and connect it to one outlet. Most consumer-grade power strips are only rated for 15 amps total, and daisy-chaining them is a fire hazard. Always plan your power from the breaker panel out.
Choosing the Right Wire and Breaker
Selecting the correct wire gauge is non-negotiable for safety. The wire must be thick enough to handle the current demanded by the breaker.
| Breaker Size | Wire Gauge (AWG) | Max Continuous Load | Common Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 15 Amps | 14-Gauge (14/2) | 1,440 Watts (12A) | Standard lighting, outlets |
| 20 Amps | 12-Gauge (12/2) | 1,920 Watts (16A) | High-power lighting, kitchens |
My field advice is to always opt for a 20-amp circuit with 12-gauge wire for a new workshop lighting setup. The material cost difference is minimal, but it provides valuable headroom and ensures you won't have to upgrade later.
Wiring Best Practices for Safety and Performance
Proper installation technique ensures your system is safe, reliable, and performs as designed. This is especially true when mixing hardwired fixtures with plug-in systems and advanced dimming controls.
Powering Hexagon Light Grids
Many hexagon systems, such as the Dimmable Hexagon Garage Lights Gen 2, are designed for plug-and-play convenience. However, they have limits.
- Follow Manufacturer Limits: The power supply and connectors are rated for a maximum number of tubes (e.g., 62 tubes or 440W per power feed). Exceeding this can cause voltage drop, dim lights, and overheating.
- Plan Your Outlets: Instead of running long extension cords, install dedicated switched outlets in the ceiling or high on the walls where your grid will be powered. This creates a much cleaner and safer installation.
Hardwiring UFO High Bays
For fixtures like the Hyperlite LED High Bay Light - BP Series, a permanent, hardwired connection is the most robust method.
- Use Junction Boxes: All connections should be made inside a properly secured metal or plastic electrical box.
- Ensure Strain Relief: Use proper cable clamps where the wire enters the junction box and the fixture to prevent the connections from being pulled apart.
- Check Certifications: A key part of professional installation is verifying safety. Ensure your fixtures are certified by a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory. You can verify claims by searching the model number in the UL Solutions Product iQ Database.
The Nuances of 0-10V Dimming
Many high-output high bays are dimmable using a 0-10V DC signal. This is a common source of confusion.
- It Requires Separate Wires: 0-10V dimming uses a pair of low-voltage control wires (typically purple and gray) that are separate from the main AC power lines.
- Avoid Interference: A critical mistake is running these low-voltage wires in the same conduit as the 120V power lines. This can induce electrical noise and cause the lights to flicker or behave erratically. Always run control wires in a separate conduit or maintain as much distance as possible.
- Use the Right Dimmer: You need a compatible 0-10V wall dimmer. A standard residential dimmer will not work and can damage the LED driver. The NEMA LSD 64 - Lighting Controls Terminology guide provides clear definitions for these different control types.
Final Checks and Safety
Before you consider the job done, a few final steps ensure everything is perfect and safe.
- Verify Rebate Eligibility: If you are upgrading your lighting for energy efficiency, check if your fixtures qualify for local utility rebates. Many programs require products to be listed on the DesignLights Consortium (DLC) Qualified Products List (QPL).
- Mock-Up and Measure: Before committing to a permanent installation, I often mock up one section of the lighting. Power it up and use a lux meter app on your phone to measure the light intensity at your workbench. This quick test can confirm your spacing and layout calculations before you drill dozens of holes.
The Most Important Step: When to Call a Pro
This guide provides the framework for a professional-grade installation. However, safety is paramount. If you are not 100% comfortable with calculating loads, running new wire from your breaker panel, or making final connections, hire a licensed electrician. The cost of a professional is a small price to pay for the peace of mind that your workshop is safe for you and your family.
Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only. Electrical work can be dangerous. Always follow the National Electrical Code (NEC), local building codes, and manufacturer instructions. If you are unsure about any aspect of a wiring project, consult a qualified, licensed electrician.
Wrapping Up: Key Takeaways for a Flawless Lighting Plan
Transforming your garage or workshop with a hybrid hexagon and high bay lighting system is an exciting project. Success hinges on a solid electrical plan. Remember these core principles:
- Calculate First: Sum the total wattage of all fixtures and apply the NEC's 80% rule for continuous loads.
- Dedicate the Power: Use dedicated circuits for your lighting to prevent overloads and nuisance tripping.
- Choose the Right Gear: Use 12-gauge wire for 20-amp circuits to provide headroom for powerful lights.
- Separate Your Signals: Keep low-voltage dimming wires separate from high-voltage power lines to prevent interference.
- Prioritize Safety: Verify safety certifications and never hesitate to call a licensed electrician when a task is beyond your skill level.
A little forethought on the electrical side will ensure your amazing new lights perform reliably, safely, and exactly as you envisioned.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I put my high bays and hexagon lights on the same circuit? Yes, provided it is a dedicated circuit with sufficient capacity. Calculate your total wattage, apply the 80% continuous load rule, and ensure the total is below the circuit's limit (e.g., 1,920W for a 20A circuit). However, for best performance, professionals often use separate circuits for high-power and low-power lighting.
What's the real difference between a 15A and 20A circuit for garage lighting? A 20A circuit offers 33% more capacity (1,920W vs. 1,440W for continuous loads). This provides more headroom for powerful tools and lights, reduces the risk of tripping the breaker, and gives you more flexibility for future additions.
Do I need a special dimmer for my UFO high bays? Almost certainly, yes. Most high-performance high bays use a 0-10V dimming system. This requires a specific 0-10V dimmer switch and a separate pair of low-voltage control wires run to each fixture. A standard dimmer designed for incandescent or residential LED bulbs will not work.