Get Ready for a Serious Upgrade
Tired of working in the shadows? A hexagon light grid is one of the fastest ways to completely transform your garage, workshop, or detailing bay. It floods the space with bright, even light, eliminating shadows and making every task easier and safer. But the best part? These modular systems are designed for a straightforward DIY installation.
We've helped countless hobbyists and shop owners get their lighting just right. This guide is the result of that experience. We'll walk you through every step, from planning your layout to flipping the switch. We’ll also share some pro tips and point out the common mistakes we see, so you can get a perfect, professional-looking result the first time.
Section 1: Planning and Preparation
Before you start connecting tubes, a little planning goes a long way. Proper preparation is the key to a smooth installation and a grid that’s both safe and perfectly suited to your space.
What’s in the Box?
First, open up your kit and lay everything out on a clean, flat surface. Take a moment to inventory the parts. Your kit should typically include:
- LED Light Tubes: The individual light bars that form the grid.
- Connectors: These come in various shapes (two-way, three-way "Y" connectors) to link the tubes together.
- Power Cable: A dedicated cable to connect your assembled grid to a wall outlet.
- Mounting Hardware: A set of clips, zip ties, or other fasteners to secure the grid.
Count everything to make sure it matches the part list in your manual. This is also the perfect time to check for any damage that might have occurred during shipping.
Tools and Materials Checklist
You won't need a professional's tool chest for this job, but having the right tools on hand makes the process much easier.
| Tool/Material | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Ladder or Step Stool | Safely reaching your ceiling. |
| Drill with Bits | Creating pilot holes for anchors. |
| Screwdriver | Securing mounting clips. |
| Tape Measure | Planning your layout and spacing. |
| Level (Laser or Bubble) | Ensuring your grid is perfectly horizontal. |
| Pencil or Chalk Line | Marking your mounting points on the ceiling. |
| Ceiling Anchors | Crucial for drywall. Do not rely on adhesive alone. |
| Safety Glasses | Protecting your eyes while drilling. |
Safety First: Power Down
This is the most important step. Before you start any work on your ceiling, go to your breaker box and turn off the circuit that powers the outlets and lights in your garage. Use a voltage tester to confirm there is no power at the outlet you plan to use. Safety is non-negotiable, and working with electricity requires caution. For all electrical work, it's essential to adhere to local codes and standards, such as the NFPA 70 National Electrical Code (NEC), which provides the benchmark for safe electrical design and installation.
Section 2: Designing Your Perfect Grid Layout
Now for the fun part: designing your grid. The modular nature of these kits allows for incredible creativity, but there are a few practical guidelines to ensure you get the best light coverage.
Measure Your Space
Start by measuring the length and width of your garage or the specific area you want to illuminate. Note the ceiling height, as this is a key factor in determining how far apart your hexagons should be. Also, locate any obstructions like garage door openers, support beams, or storage racks.
Spacing for Optimal Light
The goal is to achieve even, shadow-free illumination. The distance between the center points of your hexagons will depend on your ceiling height. A common mistake is spacing them too far apart on low ceilings, which creates "hot spots" and darker areas.
Here are some experience-based starting points:
| Ceiling Height | Recommended Center-to-Center Spacing |
|---|---|
| 8–10 ft | 4–6 ft |
| 10–12 ft | 5–7 ft |
| 12+ ft | 6–8 ft |
These are general guidelines. For detailed workbenches or car detailing zones, you might want tighter spacing for more intense light. The Illuminating Engineering Society (IES) provides detailed recommendations for different tasks; for general garage work, aiming for 100-200 lux is a good start, while detail-oriented tasks benefit from closer to 300 lux. If you're unsure, checking out some examples can be a huge help. You can find inspiration in different configurations by looking at Hexagon Light Layouts for 1, 2, and 3-Car Garages.
Plan Your Power Source
Your grid needs a starting point. Decide where you will plug the grid into the wall. This will be the location of your "power feed." It's important to know this now, as it will be the first connection point when you start assembling the grid on the ceiling.
Section 3: Step-by-Step Installation Guide
With your plan in place and your tools ready, it's time to bring your design to life. Follow these steps carefully for a secure and stunning installation.
Step 1: Pre-Assemble and Test on the Floor
This is the single most important tip I can give you. Before you drill a single hole in your ceiling, assemble the entire grid on the floor.
- Lay It Out: Arrange the tubes and connectors on the floor according to your design.
- Connect Firmly: Click each tube firmly into the connectors. You should feel a solid connection.
- Power It Up: Connect the power cable to the designated feed point and plug it in.
- Test Every Tube: Make sure every single tube lights up. This quick check saves you the massive headache of discovering a faulty tube or loose connection after the grid is already mounted.
Step 2: Mark Your Mounting Points
Once you've confirmed everything works, unplug the grid. Now, transfer your layout to the ceiling.
- Find Your Center: Mark the center point of your installation area on the ceiling.
- Use a Chalk Line: Snap chalk lines to create a reference grid based on your planned spacing. This ensures your final installation is straight and symmetrical.
- Mark for Clips: Following your reference lines, use a pencil to mark the exact spots where you will place the mounting clips. A good rule of thumb is to place a clip near each connector and one in the middle of each long tube for support.
Step 3: Secure the Mounting Hardware
One of the most common installation failures comes from improper support. Relying only on adhesive strips or using the wrong anchors in drywall is a recipe for a sagging grid.
- For Drywall/Sheetrock: You must use appropriately rated ceiling anchors. Drill a pilot hole for each anchor, insert it, and then screw your mounting clip into the anchor.
- For Wood Joists or Beams: This is the most secure method. Use a stud finder to locate the joists. Whenever possible, screw your mounting clips directly into the wood.
Step 4: Mount the Grid
This step is often easier with a helper.
- Start at the Power Source: Begin with the section of the grid closest to your power feed point.
- Lift and Snap: Carefully lift the grid (or sections of it, if it's very large) and snap the tubes into the mounted clips. You should hear a distinct "click" as they lock in place.
- Add Safety Wires (Recommended): For extra peace of mind, especially with larger grids, consider adding thin safety wires or ropes at key connection points, secured independently to the ceiling joists.
Step 5: Powering Your System
With the grid securely mounted, you're ready for the final connection.
- Route the Cable: Run the main power feed cable neatly along the ceiling or wall to your chosen outlet. Use cable clips to secure it for a clean look.
- Plug It In: Plug the cable into the outlet.
- Flip the Switch: Go to your breaker box and turn the circuit back on. Head back to the garage and flip the switch. Enjoy your brilliantly lit new space!
Section 4: Pro Tips and Avoiding Common Pitfalls
We've seen it all when it comes to installations. Here are three critical mistakes to avoid and some advice to ensure your system runs perfectly for years.
Mistake #1: Overloading a Single Power Feed
There is a limit to how many tubes one power cable can safely handle. A typical system has a limit of around 62 tubes or 440 watts per feed. Exceeding this can cause voltage drop at the far end of the grid (dimmer lights) and potentially overheat the connectors.
- The Fix: For large installations, you must plan for multiple, evenly spaced power feeds. This distributes the electrical load safely and ensures every tube is equally bright. For more on this, see our detailed guide on how to power and link multiple hexagon light kits.
Mistake #2: Inadequate Mechanical Support
As mentioned earlier, simply sticking the grid to the ceiling is not enough. Over time, temperature changes and gravity will cause adhesive to fail.
- The Fix: Always use the supplied mechanical fasteners. Screw them into ceiling joists whenever possible. If you must mount to drywall, use anchors rated to hold at least twice the weight of your grid. This isn't just about looks; it's a critical safety measure. Using certified components, which are tested to standards like those from UL Solutions, ensures the materials are built for their intended purpose and load.
Mistake #3: Mixing and Matching Components
It can be tempting to mix tubes from different kits or try to use a standard wall dimmer with a non-dimmable system. This can lead to flickering, inconsistent color, or damage to the lights.
- The Fix: Only use components from the same kit. If you have a dimmable kit, use the supplied remote or controller. Most standard household TRIAC dimmers are not compatible with these LED systems and will cause performance issues.
Debunking a Common Myth
Myth: "You can just snap these together and stick them up in 10 minutes."
Reality: While the plug-and-play design is simple, a quality installation takes planning. The "10-minute install" myth leads to the biggest problems: sagging, overloaded circuits, and uneven lighting. Taking an hour to plan your layout, pre-test the grid on the floor, and secure it properly to the ceiling is the true secret to a fast and successful installation that lasts. The stunning results you see in inspiring garage makeovers are built on this foundation of careful prep work.
Wrapping Up: Your Key to a Perfect Install
You are now equipped with the knowledge to install your hexagon light grid like a pro. By following these steps and avoiding the common pitfalls, you’ll achieve a result that not only looks incredible but is also safe and reliable.
Let's quickly recap the four pillars of a successful installation:
- Plan First: Measure your space, design your layout, and determine your power feed locations.
- Test on the Floor: Always assemble and power up the entire grid on the floor before mounting.
- Secure Properly: Use mechanical fasteners and screw into joists or use rated drywall anchors.
- Power Correctly: Respect the 62-tube limit per feed and use multiple power sources for larger grids.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: How many hexagon light tubes can I connect to one power cord? A: A single power cable can typically support a maximum of 62 tubes (approximately 440W). For larger grids, you must use multiple, evenly spaced power feeds to distribute the load.
Q: Can I cut the LED tubes to a custom length? A: No, the tubes are sealed units and cannot be cut or modified. Doing so will damage the light and void the warranty.
Q: Can I install these lights on a wall instead of the ceiling? A: Absolutely! The installation process is the same. Just be sure to use appropriate wall anchors for a secure mount.
Q: Are the lights dimmable? A: This depends on the specific kit you purchase. If you have a dimmable version, you must use the remote or controller included. They are generally not compatible with standard residential wall dimmers.
Q: What is the warranty on these lighting systems? A: Our lighting systems are backed by a comprehensive 5-Year Warranty. For full details on our policies, you can always visit our official FAQ page.